This Is Why Italians Wait for La Befana: Traditions & Where to Go on January 6

La Befana is one of Italy’s most distinctive and deeply rooted traditions, celebrated every year on January 6, the Epiphany (Festa dell’Epifania). The celebration blends ancient pagan rituals, Christian symbolism, folklore, and strong regional identities, making it a unique cultural experience that continues to play an important role in Italian family life and public festivities.

What Is La Befana?

La Befana is a legendary old woman who travels on a broomstick during the night between January 5 and January 6, visiting children throughout Italy. According to tradition, she leaves:

Sweets, candy, and small gifts for well-behaved children
Coal (carbone della Befana), today usually made of sugar or chocolate, for those who misbehaved

Children hang stockings (calze della Befana) near fireplaces, doors, or beds. Despite her witch-like appearance, La Befana is a benevolent and maternal figure, symbolizing wisdom, generosity, and the closing of the old year.

The Origins of La Befana: Pagan and Christian Roots

The origins of La Befana predate Christianity and can be traced back to ancient Roman agricultural rituals marking the end of the farming year after the winter solstice. An elderly female figure represented the old year coming to an end, making space for renewal and fertility.

With the spread of Christianity, these traditions were reinterpreted and connected to the Epiphany, commemorating the visit of the Three Wise Men (Magi) to the infant Jesus.

The Christian Legend

According to Christian folklore:

The Magi asked an old woman for directions to Bethlehem
She refused to join them
Later, she regretted her decision and set out to find the child
Unable to identify him, she began giving gifts to all children

This story transformed La Befana into a symbol of repentance, kindness, and redemption, merging pagan symbolism with Christian meaning.

What Italians Do on January 6?

January 6 is a national public holiday in Italy. Celebrations vary by region but commonly include:

Public festivals and markets
Befana parades and symbolic descents
Distribution of sweets to children
Family meals featuring traditional desserts

The day also marks the official end of the Christmas season, reflected in the Italian saying:
“L’Epifania tutte le feste porta via.”

Where to Go and What to Do: Celebrations in Italy

Rome — Piazza Navona and Epiphany Traditions

Location: Piazza Navona, 00186 Rome

Piazza Navona is historically the most famous place in Italy associated with La Befana.

Christmas and Befana Market: In recent years, the market has returned to full operation. It focuses mainly on sweets, candy, traditional toys, and games, rather than artisan crafts.
The Befana Descent: The symbolic descent of La Befana by the Vigili del Fuoco (Italian Firefighters) traditionally takes place in Piazza Navona. However, the exact timing and format can vary slightly each year depending on safety and organizational decisions.
Typical Timing: Events usually peak around midday on January 6, with stalls open from morning until evening.

Nearby, Rome also hosts the historic Procession of the Three Wise Men, which proceeds along Via della Conciliazione toward St. Peter’s Basilica in the late morning.

Florence — Epiphany, Befana, and the Cavalcata dei Magi

Florence’s Epiphany celebrations are among the most culturally significant in Italy.

Cavalcata dei Magi: The central event on January 6 is the Cavalcade of the Magi, a spectacular Renaissance-style procession featuring hundreds of participants in historical costume. The parade crosses the historic center and culminates near Piazza del Duomo.
Befana Descent: Separately from the Magi parade, La Befana traditionally descends by rope with the firefighters from the Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria, distributing sweets to children.
Timing: The Magi procession usually takes place late morning; the Befana descent generally occurs in the afternoon.

This combination makes Florence one of the richest destinations in Italy for Epiphany celebrations.

Urbania (Marche) — The Capital of La Befana

Location: Urbania, Province of Pesaro and Urbino, Marche
Festival Dates: Usually January 3–6

Urbania is widely considered the official home of La Befana.

The entire historic center is transformed into a themed festival space
The town hosts the Casa della Befana, exhibitions, workshops, and street performances
Urbania holds the record for Italy’s largest Befana stocking, measuring over 50 meters in length
Local food stalls highlight Marche specialties, including truffles, cured meats, and regional wines

Urbania offers the most immersive and authentic La Befana experience in the country.

Venice — Regata delle Befane

Location: Grand Canal, Venice
Route: San Tomà area to Rialto Bridge

On January 6, Venice hosts the Regata delle Befane, a traditional rowing race where participants dress as La Befana.

Boats race along the Grand Canal
The finish near Rialto Bridge offers the best viewing points
The event blends Venetian maritime tradition with Epiphany folklore

Verona and Northern Italy — Rogo della Vecchia / Panevin

In Verona and across Veneto and Friuli, Epiphany is marked by the Rogo della Vecchia, also known locally as Panevin or Pignarul.

A large effigy of an old woman is burned
The ritual symbolizes the end of the old year and renewal
The direction of the smoke is traditionally interpreted as a sign of good or bad fortune

This tradition is especially strong in rural and northern communities.

Traditional La Befana Foods

Food is central to Epiphany celebrations.

Carbone della Befana: Sweet coal made from sugar or chocolate
Befanini: Small citrus-flavored cookies typical of Versilia (Tuscany)
Fugassa d’la Befana (Piedmont): A soft cake traditionally containing a hidden bean or coin; whoever finds it becomes the “king” or “queen” of the day
Pinza (Veneto): Dense cake with dried fruit
Torrone: Nougat widely consumed across central and northern Italy

Practical Tips for Travelers

January 6 is a public holiday; transport runs normally, but popular cities can be crowded
Arrive early in Rome, Florence, and Urbania to secure good viewing spots
Dress warmly: January temperatures are low, especially in the north
Markets and events usually conclude by the evening of January 6

La Befana is far more than a children’s tradition. It represents Italy’s ability to preserve ancient customs while adapting them to modern life, blending folklore, religion, gastronomy, and public celebration. Experiencing La Befana in Italy means witnessing the true end of the festive season…one rooted in centuries of history and lived passionately across regions, towns, and generations.